Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero Project

Page 1:  Stock Assembly

Because I have already built several other CC-01's, I did not record most of the build process here.  For those interested in more information about the build of this chassis, a detailed build record of another CC-01 can be found on my Land Rover Defender page.



I hardly took any pictures of this while I was building.  I built this as a learning project with my 12 year old daughter and we were concentrating on the parts rather than on taking pictures.  Therefore, the first picture is the completed chassis!  You can see that the main chassis is a single piece bathtub style design which makes it very stiff and durable.  The gearbox is integral to the chassis and is located just ahead of the motor.  The gears are very wide for a car of this size and are made of nylon.  They should last almost forever.  I really like the scale wheels and tires as well.  The wheels and running boards are not chrome but a dull metallic silver color.  The integrated wheel wells help keep debris away from the electronics.




Here is a closer view of the electronics installation.  The 540 motor is mounted centrally aligned with the chassis.  A tray behind the motor holds the speed controller and receiver with the steering servo beside the motor.  The battery sits in a lateral slot under the electronics.  Because the battery slot is specifically shaped to fit a 6-cell NiMH pack, you really can't fit in anything else unless it is the same size.  NiMH is fine for this model anyway.  The weakest point of the design is the steering crank.  The steering crank has only a single long axis which runs from the top where the steering servo is to the bottom of the chassis where is connects to another link going out to the wheels.  This single long axis is pretty loose and does not ride on a bearing.  It connects to the lower cranks with a couple of flats which do not fit tightly.  This makes it hard to drive the vehicle in a straight line.




From the bottom you can see the suspension and drive line.  The front suspension is independent double wishbone type.  The rear uses a solid axle with 4-bar links.  The shocks are oil filled plastic CVA all around.  The rear shocks attach in an odd way, connecting to the lower suspension links behind the axle instead of to the axle housing itself.  The rear drive shaft is a very nice sliding steel unit with universal joints.  There is no front drive shaft because the gearbox is integral to the front chassis.  Front and rear differentials are unsealed gear type.




Here is the completed model.  The hard shell body has been painted with a Model Master metallic purple (my daughter's choice) and silver along the bottom.  I was pretty happy with how the masking came out this time. Nice sharp line.  The front light buckets came with the kit and so did the spare tire cover on the rear.  The body does not use traditional body posts to mount.  There are two body posts in the back but they point aft.  You slip the rear of the body over these rear posts, then deform the front bumper forward until it pops over a feature on the chassis, locking the body in place.  Makes for a nice smooth outer shell.


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©2017 Eric Albrecht